Do you like long car trips? Then you will like the R-21 highway, aka “Cola”, it is also the road from St. Petersburg to the border with Norway. But even we don’t want to go that far, so we’ll slow down in Murmansk for now. Read the article to find out what is interesting about this stretch of almost 1400 km of road adventures. Spoiler: There will be fortresses, ancient churches, seals, waterfalls and the northern lights.
Contents
- Fish market in Yushkovo
- Staraya Ladoga
- Lodeynoye Pole
- Olonets
- Petrozavodsk
- Kizhi
- Kivach
- Kandalaksha
- Lapland Nature Reserve
Where to stop along the way: start and finish
In St. Petersburg (suddenly you don’t have a favorite option yet):
- The Airportcity Plaza St.Petersburg, 4* Hotel is a 20—minute drive from the airport, and there is a free shuttle service from there. In addition to the classic sauna, the spa offers a Turkish hammam.
- Artstudio M103 Apart-Hotel is a new hotel within a 10—minute walk from Moskovskie Vorota Metro Station.
In the vicinity of Murmansk:
- Lapland Village is a tourist complex with domed tents, cottages, log cabins and a sauna in the taiga, 25 km from Murmansk. The houses are in the forest, so hares and squirrels come to visit.
- Aurora Barnhouse is a house in the tundra, a 15—minute drive from the city. Thanks to the panoramic windows and the lack of illumination, you can watch the northern lights right from your bed. A fireplace and a terrace with sun loungers will add comfort.
Fish market in Yushkovo: buy smoked terpug
If you do not like fragrant smoked fish, feel free to skip this point. And if at the very mention of a delicacy you immediately imagine fresh potatoes with butter and dill and further down the list, remember the landmarks of the fish market: at the entrance to the village of Yushkovo, in front of the bridge over the Volkhov.
It doesn’t look like an Eliseevsky deli, of course, but the fish is really good, there is caviar too, so stock up. Taking a passenger seat and enjoying smoked terpug right on the way is priceless! The main thing is that the driver does not mind.
Remember the landmarks of the fish market: at the entrance to the village of Yushkovo, in front of the bridge over the Volkhov. Photo: basel101658/Shutterstock.com
Staraya Ladoga: explore the fortress and ancient frescoes
The ancient northern capital of Russia is proud of a small but powerful fortress of the end of the XV century: the thickness of the walls reaches 7 m. Two towers house museum expositions: you can get acquainted with the history of Ladoga of the last centuries and archeology from the Neolithic to the Early Middle Ages.
Behind the fortress walls stands the snow-white church of St. George the Victorious of the XII century. Local legend says that Alexander Yaroslavovich, later nicknamed Nevsky, prayed here before the battle with the Swedes in 1240. Anyway, the place is historical: even fragments of the original painting have been preserved. And there are not so many pre—Mongol temples in Russia, so if you drive by, take a look.
Where to stay
- Severnaya Guest House is a budget option for a comfortable enough rest on the road.
- SemVoda Pasha Guest House — cozy houses on the banks of the Pasha River with barbecue areas, a sauna and a chance to go fishing (and, importantly, even catch fish!).
The ancient northern capital of Russia is proud of a small but powerful fortress of the end of the XV century. Photo: Kirill Skorobogatko/Shutterstock.com
Dedicated to fans of road trips
First, catch a time-tested selection of harmful tips and do exactly the opposite. Secondly, in case you can’t stop anymore, keep a guide along the M-4 Don highway with gingerbread and Divnogorie.
Lodeynoye Pole: follow in the footsteps of Peter the Great
Of course, traveling through Leningrad and neighboring regions cannot do without places memorable for the deeds of Emperor Peter I. Such is Lodeynoye Pole — by the will of the reformer tsar, the city became the birthplace of the Baltic Fleet. By Peter’s decree, a shipyard was laid in the settlement, where in 1703 the frigate Shtandart, the first military vessel of the Baltic Fleet, was launched. The ship still flaunts on the coat of arms of the city, however, deprived of the imperial banner.
In the Shipbuilders’ Square on the banks of the Svir River, a pavilion-museum “Peter’s House” was built in honor of the emperor: alas, the original has not been preserved. The restored sovereign’s palace will delight with a colorful model of a shipyard with sailboats and an imperial motorcade with sleek horses: not a “Grand layout”, but very soulful. It is also nice to walk along the well-groomed square and the embankment with the monument to the very frigate.
Where to stay
- The 3* Dot on the Map Lodeynoye Pole Hotel is located 7 km from the city, with panoramic views of the Svir River. Stylish wooden houses, a restaurant with a fireplace, cozy walking paths and silence are what you need after a long journey!
A pavilion-museum “Peter’s House” was built in the Shipbuilders’ square on the banks of the Svir River in honor of the emperor. Photo: Juliia_Kvade/Shutterstock.com
Olonets: to get acquainted with the life of Karelians-Livviks
Olonets is one of the oldest settlements in Karelia, its history dates back to the XII century. Fragments of the fortress moat have been preserved in the city since the Middle Ages, and from later times — good-quality merchant mansions and the Cathedral of the Smolensk Icon of the Mother of God. Olonets is called the city of bridges, there are really a lot of them here, and you can take a picture in the genre of “the road to the temple” with a pretty wooden bridge.
But the main point of attraction for tourists is the National Museum of Karelians—Livviks named after N. G. Prilukin. His ethnographic collection is considered the largest in Karelia: a great place to immerse yourself in the original culture of the people. We advise you to go on a guided tour: it will be much more interesting and authentic — the museum staff work in national costumes.
Fragments of a fortress moat have been preserved in the city since the Middle Ages. Photo: Viktor Karasev/Shutterstock.com
Petrozavodsk: take a walk and refresh yourself on the road
Tourists have a lot to do in the city on the shore of Lake Onega. Take a walk along the embankment, photographing funny sculptures and trying to figure out their meaning — what, for example, do “Fishermen” catch? Take a look at the National Museum of the Republic of Karelia and stock up on knowledge before a long journey. Plan along Lenin Street, looking into souvenir and berry shops and checking out cloudberries and cranberries. And, of course, refresh yourself with lohikato and wickets with fragrant tea made from local herbs in the museum-restaurant “Vkareliiest”. If you want more, keep our detailed guide to Petrozavodsk.
Where to stay
- Karelia & SPA 4* Hotel is a five—minute walk from the embankment and the pier, from where Meteors depart for Kizhi. You will also enjoy a rich and delicious buffet breakfast and the opportunity to swim and warm up in the spa area in the early morning.
- Cosmos Petrozavodsk 4* Hotel is located on the embankment overlooking Lake Onega from some of the rooms and the restaurant. Another of the advantages are nice breakfasts and the opportunity to substitute a tired office back for a massage therapist.
Take a walk along the embankment, photographing funny sculptures. Photo: Vladimir Usharov/Shutterstock.com
Kizhi: to get acquainted with the life of the past centuries
Just because it is impossible to drive past the wooden wonder island! Even if you’ve already been there once: firstly, you probably didn’t have time to see all the interesting things, secondly, the sun is shining differently today, and thirdly, you have to redo the cherished frame that didn’t turn out.
It is unlikely that you will not freeze in delight before the panorama of the Transfiguration Church or break away from the truly divine heavens of the little chapel of the Archangel Michael. After contemplating these beauties, go to the village of Yamka to observe daily life, so unlike urban life. Forges, mills, meadows, strong houses in the north and the expanses of Lake Onega are not crowded Nevsky Prospekt.
It is unlikely that you will not freeze in delight before the panorama of the Transfiguration Church. Photo: Alvov/Shutterstock.com
Kivach: see the famous waterfall
Perhaps this is the most famous waterfall in Karelia. It is best to look at it in spring, when it is most full-flowing and stormy waters effectively fall from rocky ledges. The height of the lower, largest step is 8 meters, which is enough to make a small detour. Not Victoria, but it’s pretty enough for a plain waterfall.
The waterfall is located on the territory of the reserve of the same name, so the entrance fee is 320 rubles. The ticket price includes a visit to the arboretum with funny sculptures, the stone museum and the nature museum with dioramas, where you can see the inhabitants of the Karelian forests.
Perhaps this is the most famous waterfall in Karelia. Photo: Tatiana Andreyeva/Shutterstock.com
Kandalaksha: admire the White Sea and seals
Tell me honestly, is your family also constantly jokingly threatened with a vacation on the White Sea instead of your beloved Mediterranean (yes, the author has an injury)? So, in Kandalaksha, there is a stunning view of this coldest sea.
If you’re lucky, Greenland seals will pose for you instead of handsome Turks. In late April – early May, they swim to the mouth of the outlet channel of the hydroelectric power station. As a rule, these are cubs at the age of 1-2 months, who are not afraid of people and let them get quite close to themselves. But remember that you can’t feed mimimish paws, even if you really want to: in order to survive, kids must be able to get food themselves and not rely on manna from heaven.
If the pinnipeds do not deign to swim, do not worry — the cast bronze seal Grigory is always in place and ready for a handshake.
If you’re lucky, Greenland seals will pose for you instead of handsome Turks. Photo: e-leet/Shutterstock.com
All the way: catch and film aurora
The Cola highway is poetically called the “Path to the Northern Lights”: firstly, it is the shortest road to the Arctic from European Russia. The second consequence follows from the first: from September to April, you can see the northern lights here. So if during the night crossing the sky blooms with flashes of green and purple colors, rather park and go out to admire the beauty.
If you suddenly oversleep the radiance, do not worry, here is our detailed guide: we have collected places where heavenly shows are still shown in Russia.
Lapland Nature Reserve: visit Santa Claus and walk through the ecotropes
No, we do not propose to “mow” through Veliky Ustyug. There is a Lapland Santa Claus’s camp in Karelia. You will find it in the Chunozersk estate on the shore of the lake of the same name in the vicinity of Monchegorsk, on the territory of the Lapland Nature Reserve. The entertainment program is mainly designed for kids, as well as the nearby eco-trail “Lesnaya Pochemuchka”. But in the reserve itself there are other routes along which you can walk, admire the harsh northern nature and, with a good combination of circumstances, meet wild animals.
You can visit the reserve after agreeing on a visit beforehand — keep this in mind. Look for contacts and detailed information on the official website.
In the reserve itself there are also routes along which you can walk and admire the harsh northern nature. Photo: Shchipkova Elena/Shutterstock.com
A road trip is freedom, and a road trip from St. Petersburg to Murmansk is freedom, beauty and open spaces. Of course, there is much more interesting along the way than we managed to tell. Go, admire and get inspired for new trips!
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Cover photo: Jonathan Pie/Shutterstock.com
