What to see in Novorossiysk and nearby: Koldun Mountain, dolmens and vineyards

Why go

The local climate is close to the Mediterranean, and the North Caucasian relief sometimes resembles the Ceylon road to Kandy. Mesopotamian amphorae are still found in the vicinity, and dolmens, whose mystery of origin and purpose has not been solved, cuisine with Cossack, Greek and Caucasian recipes, ancient houses of the Black Sea province and modern wineries, remain from the cultural heritage.

Here you can endlessly go to the mountains along different routes, sunbathe right on the central embankment — well, or drive to one of the beaches of Tsemesskaya Bay in 15 minutes — and just enjoy southern life without crowds of tourists (for now).

Here you can endlessly go to the mountains on different routes, sunbathe right on the central embankment. Photo: Baturina Yuliya/Shutterstock.com

How to get there

Train

From Moscow. The nearest airports — Anapa and Gelendzhik — have been closed since 2022. You can get from Moscow and all the cities on the route by the branded express train No.30/030 “Premium” Moscow — Novorossiysk. The travel time there is 21 hours and 40 minutes, and the return time is 22 hours and 10 minutes. The cost starts from about 5,000 rubles. I recommend buying tickets at least three months in advance, the seats are disassembled instantly. There are also regular trains that run from Moscow for more than a day.

If there were no direct train tickets, you can get to Krasnodar (from 4101 rubles for a seat in the reserved seat) and then to Novorossiysk (3 hours on the way, from 735 rubles for a seat).

From St. Petersburg. A regular direct train runs from Moskovsky Railway Station (from 7303 rubles per reserved seat; travel time is 1 day 20 hours).

From Rostov-on-Don. There is a regular railway connection to Novorossiysk from Rostov-on-Don (from 1,785 rubles).

You can get from Moscow and all cities on the route by the branded express train No.30/030 “Premium” Moscow — Novorossiysk. Photo: Sergei Afanasev/Shutterstock.com

Plane plus train, transfer or motor ship

Another way is to get from your city by plane to Adler airport in Sochi and transfer to a bus transfer (3600 rubles) or railway. For example, to the “Swallow” (7 hours 27 minutes, from 2305 rubles) — but she goes only once a day. There is also a way from Sochi on the ship “Comet” — 4.5 hours by water will cost from 3,500 rubles for adults and from 2,500 for children.

By car

An option for those who are not limited in time is a road trip with the whole family south along the M—4 Don highway. The 1,543 km federal highway begins in Moscow and ends in Novorossiysk. If you drive non-stop, the journey time will take about 17 hours. Details on how to plan such a trip are here.

Where to stay

Apartments in the residential complex “Arena” from Letoaart

Cozy apartments with a tropical interior and a convenient location near two beaches at once — Myshako and Aleksino — and the Golden Bay water park. 

Boutique Hotel Pomido’r

The designer hotel is within walking distance from the Malaya Zemlya Memorial and Aleksino Beach with a rooftop pool, a Mediterranean and author’s cuisine restaurant, a fitness center and a spa.

Boutique Hotel Pomido’r.

Grand Yan Hotel

Rooms with sea views, there is a beauty salon, restaurants and entertainment. Admiral Serebryakov Embankment is 300 m away.

Hilton Garden Inn Novorossiysk

A Hilton hotel with swimming pools, a fitness and spa center. It is located on the Admiral Serebryakov embankment, opposite Cape Lyubov.

Hilton Garden Inn Novorossiysk.

What to see

Embankment Admiral Serebryakov

It stretches for 4 km, if you count from the monument to the “Port Workers of Novorossiysk” before the ensemble “Malaya Zemlya”, dedicated to the Great Patriotic War.

At the beginning of the promenade, the cruiser Mikhail Kutuzov has been sleeping for a long time — large, the color of wet steel, but not gloomy. There is a long pier of the marine station nearby. On the other side of the sea there are layered mountains of terracotta and yellow ochre rocks. Behind the parapet there is usually a calm, but periodically angry sea. In the autumn-winter period, the waves jump out a couple of meters — beautiful, spectacular, slightly scary. The camera needs to be held tight, the wind is also angry.

On the Serebryakov embankment there is a rental of children’s mini-cars, scooters, bicycles, and everything so suitable for active recreation: yachts, sapsurfing, water activities. In the evenings, the lighthouse church of Peter and Fevronia shines.

At the beginning of the promenade, the cruiser Mikhail Kutuzov has been sleeping for a long time — large, the color of wet steel, but not gloomy. Photo: KrimKate/Shutterstock.com

“Malaya Zemlya” and the Sudzhuk Spit

The embankment leads to the “Malaya Zemlya” — the complex includes a monument to the memory of the battle for the liberation of the city during the Second World War and a bridgehead of untouched territory with overgrown trenches.

Behind the “Malaya Zemlya” is the Sudzhuk Spit, the filming location of one of the scenes of the “Diamond Hand”, with an island of fairy tales. A Vodyanoi from a Soviet cartoon (the aria “I am a Vodyanoi, I am a Vodyanoi” — his performance) and Pushkin’s mermaids with cats on oaks settled here. Right there, on Aleksino beach, they swim, sunbathe, ski, windsurfing and run along the coastal pebbles.

Behind the “Little Earth” is the Sudzhuk Spit, the filming location of one of the scenes of the “Diamond Hand”, with an island of fairy tales. Photo: Alexey MERINOV Krr/Shutterstock.com

Parks and urban routes

I advise you to take a walk in Pushkin Square on Sovetov Street and look at Chernyakhovsky Boulevard near the embankment and the historical museum-reserve. In the Eastern district of Novorossiysk there is a pretty Lenin Komsomol Park and Golitsyn Castle in the German Gothic style — however, according to reviews, it is impossible to come close to the latter.

Shirokaya Balka Beach

If you want to sunbathe outside the city sun, go to Shirokaya Balka beach 10 km from the center. The shore is lined with perfectly smooth stones (those who prefer rocky beaches to sandy ones will understand), and the clear water frames them. Flyboard, jet ski, wakesurfing and cute cafes with wooden terraces are present.

Minibuses go there and back every hour from the bus station or whenever you want — a taxi from anywhere in the city (200-500 rubles, depending on demand and distance). 

If you want to sunbathe outside the city sun, go to the Shirokaya Balka beach 10 km from the center. Photo: eleonimages/Shutterstock.com

Myshako

I recommend riding boots next tothe village of Myshako (and the vineyards of the winery of the same name) — by the way, archaeologists declared it an ancient Mesopotamian settlement. Many hiking trails start from here.

They swim and inflate saps on the local beach, and here there is an observation deck overlooking the Black Sea.

Where to go camping

The Myshako — Abrau-Durso trail

For those who need a distance: the route takes 23 km in one direction, but as a reward you will get a view of wild beaches, azure water that breaks foam on rocks, and in the final — Abrau-Durso with the lake of the same name, a park, Lev Golitsyn’s restaurant and wine cellars.

There are simpler routes to Shirokaya Balka beach (~13 km) and to Koldun Mountain (~6 km). Officially, the peak is called Myshako (400 m above sea level), and legends designate it as a place of power. They say a good sorcerer lived here and healed the locals. Due to the peculiarities of the air flow, the mountain is popular with paragliders.

Officially, the peak is called Myshako (400 m above sea level), and legends designate it as a place of power. Photo: aarrows/Shutterstock.com

Kabahaha Mountain — “Wide Beam”

11 km of solid greenery: forest, wide trails, pines. Start from the chapel at the Kabakhakh cemetery, go to the Chuhabl River through the Lesnaya Polyana cottage association, reach the pine forest on the slope of Mount Sapun, cross the Devil’s Bridge over the gorge, and finally go down to the Shirokaya Balka beach. 

Park named after Leninsky Komsomol — Nameless hill

Just 5 km on foot from the park — and the bird’s-eye view of the city is yours.

Dolmens

To touch the past, go to the dolmens. For example, to the “Moon” and “Sun” on Mount Nexis. Dolmens are ancient megaliths. The structures resemble giant boxes made of stone slabs up to 10 m in length and weighing several tons. Their purpose has not been revealed.

To touch the past, go to the dolmens. Photo: Yuriy Bartenev/Shutterstock.com

Hiker, keep it in mind!

The Islet blog contains many life hacks for hiking enthusiasts of varying complexity: we advise you to start with harmful tips for those who are going hiking (and do the opposite), choose a simple route for tracking and then take a swing at one of the best ecotropes in the world.

Where to go in the vicinity

Abrau-Durso Winery

The famous Abrau-Durso winery It does not lose its attractiveness from its popularity. The turquoise surface of the lake with a hint of emerald, curly mountains nearby, a park with roses, a restaurant with a summer veranda and Golitsyn cellars with wines and cheeses. By the way, Abrau has a non-alcoholic line and sparkling water (in case something with a degree doesn’t suit you).

The famous Abrau-Durso winery does not lose its attractiveness due to its popularity. Photo: AnnDcs/Shutterstock.com

Chateau Pinot Winery

The Chateau Pinot winery has vineyards at the foot of Mount Koldun. The line includes rare vintages and Eiswein, a German type of collectible dessert wines from late grapes.

The restaurant with an outdoor terrace and wine bar serves local cheeses and snails, as well as other dishes of European — with an emphasis on French — and original Black Sea cuisine.

Recently, an outdoor swimming pool with multi—format parties appeared at the winery (entrance for children is 1000 rubles, for adults — 2500 rubles).

The Chateau Pinot winery has vineyards at the foot of Mount Koldun. Photo: katuka/Shutterstock.com

Chateau Talu winery

The focus on France is in the winery with the author’s restaurant “Chateau Talu”. The kitchen is headed by Ilya Zakharov, a well-known brand chef in Moscow, and Sergey Kupriyanov, a representative of the Guild of Chefs of the Black Sea coast. There are guided tours of the vineyards, tastings and master classes in wine painting. 

More cool attractions

Our selection of top 10 interesting places in the region will help you plan an eventful trip around the Krasnodar Territory.

What and where to try

First of all, fish and seafood! Bet on horse mackerel, pelengas, sea carp and the main hits of the Black Sea region — local flounder and barabula.

Seafood and wine

Seafood is given away at cost in the “Workshop”, and oysters, hedgehogs, crabs and local seafood are perfectly cooked and served with wine in the “Fresh Catch”.

Oysters, hedgehogs, crabs and local seafood are perfectly cooked and served with wine in the “Fresh Catch”. Photo: Julia T./Yandex.Maps

Aesthetic Black Sea cuisine with sparkling wine and treasures of the Abrau-Durso cellars is offered not only in the restaurant at the winery, but also in the city’s 1870 Abrau.

Next door there is a wine gastrobar “Vinyl” with live jazz, blues and a view of the embankment.

 The theme of wine gastronomy is continued by “Citizens” (if you get a “Citizen’s Card”, the average cost per dish will be 200-300 rubles) and “Bar 55” with local snails, cheeses and only domestic wine. 

The theme of wine gastronomy is continued by the “Townspeople”. Photo: “Citizens”

Dumplings and craft beer

For many years, the most popular place among locals and their guests has been the “Horse and Dolphin” — a two-story mansion on the waterfront based on British pubs.

Try delicious dumplings, dumplings, chebureks and other home cooking in the family “Enik-Benik”. In the house of the “Cibulka”, as if from Gogol’s stories, they prepare a cozy Kuban cuisine. And here they bake pizza with cheese sides.

Try delicious dumplings, dumplings, chebureks and other home cooking in the family “Enik-Benik”. Photo: “Enike-Benike”

Desserts

Come to Rudnitskaya for sweets. On display are huge whoopi cakes, nuts with condensed milk, macaroon snickers (this is something fantastic) and other goodies.

Coffee

Monk should be in the plans of all those who are not indifferent to a special coffee, a ceremonial match and a relaxing atmosphere. In addition, Basque cheesecake, cheesecakes, croissants and other pastries are made here on their own — and very well.

My favorite coffee shop is the coworking – Surf Coffee x Port on Serebryakov Embankment. Another stylish space where you can order smoothie bowls and specialty coffee is the Bary. If you find yourself in Myshako, take a closer look at the “Coffee and Waffles” with Viennese waffles and croissants.

Stylish space where you can order smoothie bowls and specialty coffee — Bary. Photo: Bary

What to bring

I advise you to buy delicious souvenirs at the Central Market. The covered pavilion sells dairy suluguni, feta, goat cheeses of various ages and milk (and also homemade pies). Take spices, nuts and churchkhela in the tent, which is located immediately to the left after the arch leading to the market. 

Do you know what the special luxury of Novorossiysk is? The city has not been assigned the status of a resort, and therefore the traveler’s life is not limited to swimming, coastal cafes and trying to escape the tourist rush hour. At the same time, all beach facilities are within a 15—minute drive (or walk), and there are plenty of opportunities for active recreation. Enjoy it!

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Cover photo: Khristina Sergeychik/unsplash.com